Installing Strut Tower Braces
After lowering the RX8 with the Tein Coilovers, next on the list was to add some chassis reinforcing. After looking at all my options, I decided to go with GTSPEC front and rear strut tower braces. Below is a how-to on installing. It is actually a relatively easy job using some basic hand tools.
NOTE: This is for reference only; I am not liable if you screw your car up. Use caution and common sense when working on your vehicle. Read the directions (like you will) use the right tools and use the appropriate safety equipment.
Tools needed
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
3/8” socket wrench
3/8” socket extension
17mm wrench
8mm Allen
Phillips screwdriver
Utility knife
Getting Started
The RX8 does come with a factory strut tower brace. And, if you remove it, you do feel a difference. However, the factory brace leaves much room for improvement. For the ZWP, we decided to go with the GTSPEC Strut bar. It is made from aircraft grade 6061 aluminum with a triple internal hollow wall. Overall weight is about the same from the steel factory brace when you take into account all the brackets on top of the strut towers.
Factory Strut Tower Brace
Remove Factory Brace
Using a 12mm and a 14mm socket, remove the factory strut brace and additional brackets. With the factory brace removed we can really compare it to the GTSPEC. Actually, there is no comparison, the stiffness and the build quality is drastically better than the factory brace.
Install the GT brace
Reusing the 14mm sockets, install the GTSPEC brace. We recommend having some play in the bar mounting points to pivot the brackets for installation ease. Once the brackets are firmly mounted, and then you can tighten the brace using a 17mm wrench and a 8mm Allen.
NOTE: We recommend that your car be on a flat even surface when tightening the bar. Otherwise, the brace will attempt to keep the chassis in a tweaked position.
Check for clearance
I had to slightly move (Bend) the brake lines coming from the ABS controller. I only had to move them about an 1/8 of an inch. You do not have to create a situation where your brake lines rub against anything.
Front bar complete!
Your front bar is complete. Of course you will not be able to fit the factory engine cover. (Unless you modify it) But for me that is 3 additional pounds that is not needed for the operation of the vehicle or needed as a comfort to the passengers.
Rear Bar installation
The rear bar is slightly more effort because you need to work around the interior pieces in the trunk. Care must be taken to ensure you do not break the trunk interior pieces. Let’s get started.
Remove the interior
There are several clips that must be removed to gain access to the rear strut tower mounts. Start by removing the rear plastic piece. There are four clips that hold the rear piece. These clips are removed by pulling the center clip partway out. Then tug on the center piece and the entire clip can be removed. Once all four clips are removed, gently pull up on the panel to remove it.
The remaining side pieces are removed by removing the clips then gently pulling out the pieces. In addition to the clips used on back piece, there is another clip that has a Phillips head in the center. These clips are removed by gently unscrewing the center piece completely out. Then the plug can be removed. Apply as little pressure to the Phillips screwdriver during this process or the center pieces will not come out. Once the panels are removed, we can proceed to the next step.
Mounting the strut tower brackets
Only the outside bolts need to be removed for this installation, the inner bolts can remain untouched. Align the bracket for the rear strut brace and install. In order to install the other side, it will be necessary to remove the bracket from the strut bar. This can be done with the 8mm Allen and a 17mm wrench.
Cutting the holes in the interior pieces
This is the most challenging part of the project. You could just slit the panels to slide them over the strut bar, but that will look tacky. Instead, we decided to cut holes for the bracket to extend through. This is more difficult, but the results speak for themselves. Start by placing reinstalling the factory side panel. Make sure all the mounting holes align. Then slightly press where the strut tower bracket meets the panel. A light tap will actually crack the panel where the bracket meets the panel. Use this as a reference where to cut.
On the passenger side, there is more work to be done
You need to remove the strap and reinforcement piece of wood that holds the factory flat tire kit. This can be done with a small pick took to remove the staples holding everything together. Once this is done, repeat the same steps used on the driver side for locating the strut tower bracket. Once the holes are cut for the brackets, reinstall the interior.
Mounting the rear strut tower brace
The hard part is now complete. Installing the rear strut tower brace requires using the 17mm wrench and 8mm Allen. Your installation is complete. The are several drawbacks to the rear strut tower brace. You do lose trunk room. Also, the mounting place for the Tire kit is taken then the strut tower mounting. But it does look great and the rear bar does help with the chassis in corners.
What’s next?
Our first part of this project was to improve the already great handling of the RX8. We have upgraded, the wheels and tires to light, wider wheels with more grippy tires. We lowered the car with Tein Basic Coilovers and now we have added the GTSPEC front and rear strut tower braces. Our next plan is to complete the suspension with upgraded sway bars and suspension links. Then we plan to get the whole setup tuned with corner weighting and alignment. Stay tuned.
